Destination Dishes: Chicken Wings at Bon Chon Chicken
By Elizabeth S. Bennett
In a town known for quick-fire restaurant service, waiting 20 minutes for a meal in New York, even in a fine restaurant, can seem like an endurance test. So imagine having to wait that long for fried chicken wings, which is what you'll be doing if patronize Bon Chon, whose cooks fill every order on demand.
But this isn't some fry-it-and-forget-it scenario. Poultry parts at Bon Chon are dredged in a thin batter of water and flour and then deep-fried in four separate vats of vegetable oil for five minutes at a time. The pieces are lovingly tossed from one pool of 350-degree liquid to the next, a method that is said to render all the fat, ensure that the chicken is evenly cooked and provide a superior crunch. Indeed, the approach is a rousing success and produces fully cooked, utterly juicy wings with a golden brown crust that shatters with each bite.
American wings of the Buffalo school usually end up fighting for their lives in pools of blue cheese and hot sauce, losing any crispness they may have once enjoyed. Korean fried chicken, by contrast, is a model of seasoning restraint. Depending on your taste, the cooks at Bon Chon apply a modest swipe of slightly sweetened garlic soy or hot pepper sauce. The hot one will definitely set your lips abuzz so if you intend to try both versions, start with the garlic soy.
The wings are accompanied by cubes of daikon radish, pickled in sugar and vinegar, a crunchy and refreshing complement to mouthfuls of fry. Manager Jason Baek says customers frequently grumble about how long it takes to be served. And yet, they keep coming back.
Atmosphere: Don't be put of by the grungy staircase that leads up to the restaurant. The dining room is sleek and modern and has a bar and lounge area as well as regular tables.
Notes: As mentioned, the wings are freshly cooked and could take up to 45 minutes, so sit back and relax with a beer or cocktail. It's well worth the wait.
Bon Chon Chicken
314 5th Ave, 2nd Floor
(between 31st and 32nd Streets)
New York, NY
Phone: 212-221-2222
Elizabeth S. Bennett is a freelance writer living in New York City.
Previous Destination Dishes:
