Destination Dishes: Turkey Wings at Terroir
By Elizabeth S. Bennett
Marco Canora, the chef and co-owner of Terroir, says his wings are very Italian, but it's hard to conceive of a more American-sounding dish than deep-fried turkey wings. Turkeys and frying are sort of our things, after all.
But Canora's preparation sits squarely in the Continental category. He separates the flat middle section of the wing from the drumstick and little flapper and then braises the meat in duck fat. The cooking process tenderizes the turkey and allows the chef to slide the bones out, keeping the skin and meat almost entirely intact. Once the wings are cool and dry, he pops them in the fryer as is. No dredging in batter.
This is the only deep-fried turkey confit I've ever sampled and the incredibly rich and earthy flavor is easy on the palate. The luxurious meat is teamed up with a tangy sweet and sour sauce of tomatoes, red wine vinegar, sugar, garlic and herbs.
Without a batter coating, the skin is not as crispy as a traditional deep-fried wing, but there is a depth of flavor rarely found in your average order of bar bites.
Atmosphere: There isn't much room to move in this tiny space but the atmosphere is convivial and the staff is gracious.
Notes: No reservations. Be prepared to stand outside while waiting for a seat at the bar or the one long table.
Terroir
413 East 12th Street
(between First Avenue and Avenue A)
New York, NY 10009
Phone: 646-602-1300
Elizabeth S. Bennett is a freelance writer living in New York City.
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